It’s got 250,000 miles and is $5,500. It’s a former taxi service car, apparently. Obviously, a pre-purchase inspection would be a must. I’ve heard these cars are very reliable, but the mileage, accident history (3, not sure how serious), and potential status of the high voltage battery give me pause. I’m leaning against traveling to look at it, but I’m wondering if the model is just so good it’s worth a try at that price point.

It would be replacing a 2015 Kia Soul with about 80,000 miles–Kia’s engine woes have me spooked, so I’m considering trying to get something more likely to go for several hundred thousand miles. Any thoughts?

  • mommykink@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    4
    ·
    edit-2
    5 months ago

    Big no from me, even dispite my (untrue) reputation on here as a Toyota dick rider. 250k on a former taxi car for $5,500 that you’d have to travel to even look at sounds horrible. There are plenty of better cars to be found at that price

    As someone who’s stupidly driven far distances for what looked like a good deal on a Used car, I’d never recommend it to anyone. Way too much pressure to buy at that point (sunk cost fallacy, I know), that you overlook issues you’ll regret later

    • slingstone@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      2
      ·
      5 months ago

      Yeah, that’s my feeling. I just wanted to be sure I’m not rejecting a potentially good deal. Thanks for talking me though it!

  • AwkwardLookMonkeyPuppet@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    5 months ago

    That’s way too much for that many miles IMO. Sure, the powertrain is probably fine, but it’s all the other shit that breaks and nickels and dimes you to death. Water pumps will start falling, thermostats, O2 sensors, power windows and door lock motors, electrical stuff, light bulbs… When a car gets that much use, everything is on the verge of breaking. If you’re handy, then it might not cost a lot every time something breaks, but it’s a huge PITA. We had an Accord with 240k on it, and it seemed like I was working on that thing every other weekend near the end. I wouldn’t pay more than a couple grand for a car with that many miles, and even then, I wouldn’t do it unless I had to.

  • nickmc@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    0
    ·
    5 months ago

    I haven’t done the research into the drivetrain in either car, but on the face of it I’d think your greater risk of pricy repairs are in the Avalon. If the engine in your Kia does die, I have to imagine replacing it would still be cheaper than replacing the engine in the Avalon for the added complexity of the hybrid system.

    You do you though. If your heart says you gotta have that 250k mile former taxi Avalon, enjoy it.

    • slingstone@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      5 months ago

      Yeah, I’m leaning toward keeping the Kia. It’s paid off, anyway. I’m just going to be starting some heavy preventative maintenance on that GDI engine. I haven’t done a lot of diy in the past, but some of the work seems pretty trivial, and the car can anecdotally survive 200-300K miles if I take care of it.

      • RightHandOfIkaros@lemmy.worldM
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        0
        ·
        5 months ago

        Kia has their 10yr 100k mile warranty on their powertrains. I used to work for a Kia dealer, I was the guy that would be replacing engines and transmissions. If you take care of them they typically will last, Kias quality has really improved from the old days. But even if it does blow up and if its out of warranty, I have replaced some engines that were out of warranty but the dealer covered them under “good will.” So youre probably better off keeping the Kia.

        • slingstone@lemmy.worldOP
          link
          fedilink
          arrow-up
          0
          ·
          5 months ago

          Thanks: that really makes me feel better. I’m hoping my little car keeps going, but I do need to take better care of it. I just had the crankshaft position sensor replaced to take care of a stalling/starting issue, and I feel like there’s more to be done.

          Would you mind answering some questions I have about my Soul as I look to do some of my own maintenance? If you don’t feel like it, I totally understand, because I’m trying to solicit free advice from an expert.

          • RightHandOfIkaros@lemmy.worldM
            link
            fedilink
            arrow-up
            2
            ·
            5 months ago

            Ask away, but please understand I haven’t worked for Kia since 2012, and I haven’t worked for Hyundai, which shares a lot with Kia, since 2018. So some answers may eb outdated information by now.

            • slingstone@lemmy.worldOP
              link
              fedilink
              English
              arrow-up
              1
              ·
              5 months ago

              Thanks. Sorry to take so long to take you up on this. I’ve recently had my crankshaft position sensor replaced, which the shop said required some work with the computer after the replacement. The replacement seemed simple enough, but I had to get the shop to do it since I didn’t have a lift, ramps, or a proper jack to get at it underneath my car. If I replace my PCV valve, would I need someone to do similar work with the computer, or can I straight up swap it out myself? It does not appear to have any electronic components on first examination.

              • RightHandOfIkaros@lemmy.worldM
                link
                fedilink
                English
                arrow-up
                2
                ·
                5 months ago

                Typically a PCV replacement is just a straight replacement and doesn’t require anything with the ECU. Actually, CKPS is the same, they should just be plug and play. Its possible that Kia may have added a function that can reset the CKPS or tell it to learn a new sensor or something, but I dont remember seeing that, nor have I ever needed to use a computer after replacing those parts except to clear the stored codes in the ECU and watch the PID values while on a test drive to verify the repair.