Share your shave of the day!
GEM Days 5a/14: second generation GEM Micromatic Open Comb - HOLD FLAT AGAINST FACE - Thu 21 Nov 2024
- Brush: Zenith 506B MB (27 mm × 51 mm Manchurian badger)
- Razor: GEM Micromatic Open Comb (second generation, hold flat against face)
- Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
- Lather: Stirling Soap Co. – Satsuma
- Post Shave: Stirling Soap Co. – Satsuma
- Fragrance: Acqua di Parma – Blu Mediterraneo Arancia di Capri
This is shave 9 of my run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors, and I have reached the second generation MMOC, firmly in the golden age of safety razor manufacture.
The second generation Micromatic Open Comb and Double Edge GEM blades (tagging u/Marquis90)
The first generation MMOC brought with it the new Micromatic blade format, and some prescient engineers at ASR must have had this next step already planned, when they decided to add the lateral cut-outs.
The Micromatic mechanism aligns the edge with the blade stops by engaging with the lateral cut-outs of the blades unlike all previous GEM-style razors which push on the spine instead. So, if the spine isn’t used to push against anymore, why even have a spine? Well, the spine also slightly props up the blade, giving it an angle w.r.t the base plate (it rests on the thicker spine and on the base plate near the comb instead of lying flat), but the second generation MMOC cuts this dependency. The SOTD picture shows two open MMOCs at the bottom, a brass first generation the left and a chrome plated second generation in the right. You can see that the second generation adds two protruding bumps to the base plate which lift the blade like the spine would. As a result, the second generation MMOC and all subsequent Micromatics can use spineless and standard GEM Micromatic blades.
And if the blade doesn’t need a spine, you might as well put a second edge on it. At the bottom of the SOTD picture, you can see the original GEM Micromatic single edge blades that were sold with the first generation MMOC, and on the right the then new Doubledge (not a typo) Micromatic blades sold with the second generation.
Double edged GEM blades have the obvious advantage that they would be cheaper to manufacture and would last twice as long and I don’t know why they fell back out of fashion, but I will speculate about it when we reach the Jewel/Streamline or the beginning of the decline of the GEM-style razor.
The shave
This MMOC has a fun
“HOLD FLAT
AGAINST FACE”engraving on the top cap and it’s good advice. The set of Stirling Satsuma is brand new and I bought it to replace Nordost based on advice by u/OnionMiasma, and I really enjoy it. Bright orange juice with a touch of spices, it’s a real delight.
I had Djunior smell it and he went “mhmm, like the orange (he used the Croatian word for the colour, not for the fruit) ice cream!” I need to get that kid to eat more fruit apparently 😅
Thanks Onion for the recommendation!
The timeline
1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene1914-1927: 19141924-1933: 1924 Shovelhead1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)- 1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades) ← We are here
- 1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf
- 1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless
- 1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year
- 1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)
- 1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to “Slim-V Flat Top” in 1953, British version sold as “Natural Angle” by Ever-Ready
- 1955-1958: GEM V-Slim “Heavy Flat Top” (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)
- 1958-1965: Push Button
- 1965-1973: Contour
- 1973-1979: Countour II (The last GEM razor)
Love this series! As you already know, I think the MMOC Gen 2 is a masterpiece of design. They could have stopped there, but of course, marketing folks always need a new gimmick :)
Thanks!
The series has been brewing for a couple years, but I’m really good at procrastinating 😅
I’m really good at procrastinating
If advanced degrees in it were available, I’d qualify :)
Some might say that every sufficiently advanced degree is a degree in procrastination 😅
Hah! I hadn’t thought of that! So true!
Nov 21, 2024 - Theme Thursday: National Philosophy Day
- Brush: Declaration Grooming Magic Hour 28mm B8 Badger Knot
- Razor: Karve Shaving Co. Overlander
- Blade: Gillette 7 O’Clock Super Stainless (Green) [8]
- Lather: Ariana & Evans - Asian Plum - Soap
- Post Shave: Barrister and Mann - Vespers - Splash
Today is cold. First snow of the season. Christmas Markets start to open this weekend. Vespers felt right paired with Asian Plum.
Cycle of Renewal and Rest
Winter has been symbolic of rest, reflection, and the quietude needed for regeneration. It’s a time to embrace stillness and allow for the decay of the old, paving the way for new growth.
Spring represents renewal, vitality, and hope. It embodies the promise that life, even after the darkest moments, can emerge new and flourish.
Embrace the periods of inactivity and hardship as necessary precursors to rejuvenation and progress.
November 21, 2024
- Brush: Stirling 24mm Synthetic
- Blade: allMan - 2 blade disposable (1)
- Lather: House of Mammoth - You & I (Will Die) - Soap
- Post Shave: Pinaud - Clubman - Aftershave
- Post Shave: Goodfellow & Co. - Face Lotion - Kelp & Sea Mineral
This disposable started off tuggy but opened up a bit half way through the shave. Decent result with no irritation, so that’s a win.
The other day I spent some time prepping 8 smushes of You & I (Will Die) and it smelled so good I put it next in line. I won this tub in a HoM PIF on the sub, so it’s fitting that I get to send about an oz. of it to fellow shavers.
Thursday, November 21, 2024: SLS - First GEM Shave
- Brush: Zenith/Stirling - 510SE-XL 31mm boar brush
- Razor: GEM - Clog-Pruf
- Blade: Personne - GEM PTFE (1)
- Lather: Stirling - British Leather
- Post: P&G - Old Spice Aftershave splash
- Post: Stirling - Glacial Unscented Aftershave balm
- Frag: Stirling - Stirling Gentleman
Tonight’s luxury shave was my first with the recently-acquired Clog-Pruf, since the blades /u/schontzm graciously gave me finally arrived today (again, thank you!).
Shaving with the Clog-Pruf is definitely different from the DE razors I typically use. The correct angle wasn’t too difficult to find, but the range of comfortable shaving angles seems much narrower to me. I got a very close shave, with a couple nicks ATG. I also had a bit of trouble under the nose, but I’m sure that will improve with practice.
British Leather -> Old Spice -> Stirling Gentleman was a great combo. I’ll have to remember to try this one again.
The correct angle wasn’t too difficult to find, but the range of comfortable shaving angles seems much narrower to me.
When you’ll have used it a few times, I think you’ll find that this isn’t true when compared to most DE razors. The Micromatic has quite the exposure, and that comes with a good range of angles, but the range skews towards the flatter angles compared to DE
Yeah, it might be more that I’m not used to riding the cap quite so much.
I’m definitely looking forward to using it more – it gives a great shave!
For what it’s worth, I’ve tried riding the cap with all sorts of GEM razors and it’s not my cup of tea. Eventually you’ll discover what feels good.
I used to blame rough first shaves on the PTFE blades needing some coating to wear off, but now I know better - I was using too much pressure, being used to milder DEs.
Anyway, enjoy! They’re great razors.
I’m sure you’ll get the hang of it in no time. Don’t forget that it also took you a moment to get good shave with DEs. Remember the basics (well hydrated lather, no pressure) and the rest will follow automatically
Thursday, November 21, 2024: FLS
- Brush: Zenith - B21 boar
- Razor: Gillette - Super Speed Black Tip
- Blade: Gilette - 7 O’Clock SharpEdge (6)
- Lather: Barrister and Mann - Fougère Angelique
- Post: Barrister and Mann - Fougère Angelique Aftershave Splash
- Post: Stirling - Glacial Unscented Aftershave balm
- Frag: Chiseled Face - Midnight Stag EdP
I couldn’t find time to shave until much later than I wanted. I can’t wait for this week to be over.
Have a good day y’all.
November 21, 2024
-
Brush: Wald Stratos Goldvein 29mm A1 Fan
-
Blade Holder: Gillette Fatboy E4 (setting: 4)
-
Blade: Astra Superior Platinum (7)
-
Lather: The Holy Black - Gunpowder Spice - Soap
-
Aftershave: The Holy Black - Gunpowder Spice - Aftershave
2 passes. Face lather. Excellent shave.
This scent is exactly like it sounds; Old Spice with a note of gunpowder added. As a long-time Old Spice user, I love it! The Holy Black also got the scent strength for the aftershave spot on. It doesn’t have the takeover-the-room scent level that the real stuff has, but is medium-strong by today’s standards. This is a nice nod to the past. I was planning to use my Shulton Old Spice today, and may use it for my SLS, but Gunpowder spice provided a very satisfying shave.
-
GEM Days 5b/14: second generation GEM Micromatic Open Comb – Djudicial Shave – Thu 21 Nov 2024
- Brush: Zenith 506B MB (27 mm × 51 mm Manchurian badger)
- Razor: GEM Micromatic Open Comb (second generation, Djudge razor)
- Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
- Lather: Wholly Kaw – Club Yanka
- Post Shave: Wholly Kaw – Club Yanka
Nutmeg and vanilla, Club Yanka is a unique scent that I struggle categorising, but always enjoy. The Djudicial MMOC was a silly indulgence with u/EldrormR, u/VisceralWatch, and u/Semaj3000 that still makes me smile whenever I use it. It doesn’t shave any different than this morning’s “HOLD FLAT AGAINST FACE” MMOC, but feels so much more dignified 😅.
This was shave 10 of my run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors:
1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene1914-1927: 19141924-1933: 1924 Shovelhead1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)- 1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades) ← We are here
- 1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf
- 1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless
- 1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year
- 1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)
- 1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to “Slim-V Flat Top” in 1953, British version sold as “Natural Angle” by Ever-Ready
- 1955-1958: GEM V-Slim “Heavy Flat Top” (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)
- 1958-1965: Push Button
- 1965-1973: Contour
- 1973-1979: Countour II (The last GEM razor)
November 21, 2024
-
Brush: Wald Nimbus Chryselephantine 29mm A1 Fan
-
Blade Holder: Wolfman Razors WR2/WRH2
-
Blade: Astra Superior Platinum (8)
-
Lather: Shulton - Old Spice - Soap
-
Aftershave: Shulton - Old Spice - Aftershave
2 passes. Face lather. Excellent shave.
There’s really nothing like the Real Thing™
Ah man, I don’t think I’ve ever actually smelled the OG Old Spice. Maybe I’ll hunt for some on the bay. Does the scent hold up in the soap very well or is it pretty muted by this point?
It’s muted in the soap but still there. To get the full OG effect, try to get Shulton Old Spice aftershave or cologne. The scent strength is strong by today’s standards. Perfect for the ‘60s through the ‘80s though.
-
