As your TV has optical out, you might try a optical to USB converter: https://hifimediy.com/product/hifime-ur23-spdif-optical-to-usb-converter/
As your TV has optical out, you might try a optical to USB converter: https://hifimediy.com/product/hifime-ur23-spdif-optical-to-usb-converter/
Basically a phono stage applies the RIAA (of course) and bring the signal up to line level.
I expect phono stage > Vali > speakers will work. Indeed it is a bit of a weird construction as you use the Vali as a pre-amp and use its output for input of the pre-amp of the speakers. If the Vali deliver substantial gain you might overdrive the pre-amp of the speakers.
You can simply try.
You might consider using a switch to connect the TT to either the headphone amp or the speakers. In theory this should improve listening to the speakers as you skip a entire box of electronics. If you like the coloration of a tube amp, you won’t agree with this statement.
To cite Schiit (excellent at guerilla marketing)
1,000-10,000x higher distortion? Are you nuts?
To keep this short, yes and most probably.
Measurements can be found here: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/rme-babyface-pro-fs-portable-interface-review.12313/
You might try noise C weighted at 83 dB: https://www.digido.com/portfolio-item/level-practices-part-2/
Rapid A/B is recommended. The best representation is when all is still in short term memory so loops of 4 to 6 seconds.
Volume matching is crucial as out hearing is not only a-linear but the amount varies with the SPL. It is known as the equal loudness contour or as the Fletcher-Munson curve in honor of the guys who discovered this in 1930. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equal-loudness_contour
Interpreting your “highest possible” as “highest quality”.
If I have to choose between a lossy format and a lossless format e.g. $5 for the MP3 and $10 for the FLAC, I choose the lossless version simply to future proof my collection and to avoid even the tiniest possible artifacts inherent to lossy compression (Fraunhofer & Co never claimed MP3 to be 100% transparant all of the time).
If I have to choose between CD quality (16/44.1) ar $10 or Hires (24/96) at $20, I choose CD quality simple because I don’t hear the difference.
If I have a download in 24/176 or 24/192, I always inspect the content using a spectrum analyzer. Often there are all kind of artifacts like high amount of quantization noise, some gear injecting a spike at 88 kHz, etc. I downsample them to 88 resp. 96 to get rid of the garbage https://www.thewelltemperedcomputer.com/SW/AudioTools/Spectrum.htm
Latency is a combination of hard and software.
Robert Triggs did some measurements: https://www.soundguys.com/android-bluetooth-latency-22732/
On older smartphone latency runs as high as 500 ms, on newer models it dropped to 40 ms and lower.
Indeed it take two to tango. Your phone might have APTX-LL (low latency), if your buds don’t have it, it cannot be used.
True gaming headsets often come with their own dongle. They use their own protocol to circumnavigate the latency of Bluetooth. Likewise the gear used in live sound https://www.shure.com/en-GB/performance-production/louder/digital-wireless-latency-explained
Bit more detail about Bluetooth: https://www.thewelltemperedcomputer.com/HW/Bluetooth.htm
Found this: https://drop.com/buy/drop-hifiman-he-x4-planar-magnetic-headphones
Sensitivity: 91 dB
Impedance: 25 ohms
Not very sensitive so might need a bit more power than the PC can deliver. Of cours, try it first before buying a headphone amp.
Very low impedance. Important is the damping factor (impedance headphone / impedance headphone out). 8 is considered a minimum. It might very well be that your receiver doesn’t have separate headphone amp. This means the headphone out is derived from the power amp but tuned down by a couple of resistors. Hence the headphone out might have a high output impedance resulting in a bloated bass due to insufficient damping.
Technically it is very easy, get a 3.5 to 2x RCA to connect a PC to a receiver.
Another route is a external USB DAC/amp. This might improve on both the DAC and the amp in the PC. Today one can get pretty good solutions at decent price levels: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/tempotec-sonata-bhd-pro-portable-dac-amp-review.47929/
Perhaps stating the obvious
Android by default is programed to output 44.1 khz
Really?
Android resamples everything to 48 kHz. There are media players bypassing this default. You also need a USB DAC.
Android 14 comes with an option to override this default but again you must have both the software and the hardware to utilize this.
https://www.thewelltemperedcomputer.com/SW/Android/AndroidMediaPlayers.htm
MQA is a lossy compression of hires recordings to save bandwidth: https://www.thewelltemperedcomputer.com/KB/MQA.htm
They went bankrupt in 2023. This causes Tidal to add the original recordings as well. No need to use MQA anymore.
But with Airplay, the only active connection would be the wireless one between the phone and the Wiim, right?
Maybe.
I’m not familiar with the internals of Airplay but I won’t be surprised if it works like UPnP.
In case of UPnP, the phone is a control point. It simply tells the renderer (the one doing the playback) the URL of the track on the server.
A simple check is to disconnect your phone from the Wi-Fi. If playback continues, you know the renderer pulls the audio straight from the server.
Have you tried to offload the bass from the towers using a highpass filter?
A demping ratio of 8 to 10 is considered a minimum.
According to https://pioneer.hr/controller-combo-dj-system/1199-ddj-flx4.html the headphone out is 10 Ohm so a headphone with a 80 Ohm impedance is a minimum (or you accept a bloated bass).
Shouldn’t be to hard to Google the materials used, isn’t it?
Just to get you started: https://www.upsbatterycenter.com/blog/metals-used-batteries/
What is wrong with recycling?
If you keep the bit depth at 24, I wouldn’t bother about the dither. It is at -144 dBFS so no playback chain is able to make this audible.
If it is 16, dither is considered a must. Can’t advise you on the specifics.
people who don’t understand the Nyquist theorem
Not to mention the ones who don’t understand IMD
Only in the app by the manufacturer. You might EQ on the source.
It is very simple, SBC is like MP3, it is lossy compression and the lower the bit rate the more information has to be discarded. Software compensating effectively for severe lossy compression don’t exist as far as I know.
A room filling sound is not the problem. Just get a speaker like a Sonos something and turnup the volume!
Another question is how to get a good sound. This requires good speakers but the listening position matters too. Bass is not the issue, it is omnidirectional so you will hear it everywhere and good regardless of your listening position. Midrange and higher starts to lobe. The more you are off axis the less refined the sound become as you are not listening to the direct sound but to the indirect sound reflecting from walls, floor and ceiling.
I would start with the short wall and have the speakers fire straight into the room, 25" ain’t that big. You really need 100% when WFH?
If you want to preserve the quality of the original CD, a lossless format is the only answer.
WAV is lossless but tagging support is poor.
Better use FLAC as is is lossless as well but does have excellent tagging support.
I use the file system for a rough classification
This allows for easy filters like “Path contains \Classical\” as I do play classical most of the time.
I tag it different from the other genres (composer, composition, opus) so need different views as well.
It also solves the crossover problem. All music by Frank Zappa (and the mother) is in the Pop folder. All his compositions played by classical musicians are in the Classical folder.
The genre tag is most of the time filled with what ever the internet database supplied.
I know that Bach is Baroque and likewise any composer in that period so bit redundant.
Check if your media player supports multiple values in the genre tag.