the readme says that your firmware enables pullups on clock and data lines but i don’t see that code in your keymap?

you can also tip over a cube() by 45° and difference it from your object to take off an edge.

hull() between 2 cubes would be my strategy for rhombo

I’ve been printing sculpted palm rest prototypes in ninjaflex, because i had some on hand, but if i were you I’d buy ninjatek’s Chinchilla. 75A and tested for skin compatibility.

i think its a reasonable idea, the TPU seals in air so its like a pool inflatable. TPU likes lower layer heights and you can get away with 5% infill but any less and the top surface will have holes in it and loose that pillowy feel. might need to go higher for a smoother surface. I recommend a non-crossing infill (otherwise you get blobs on the nozzle that will ruin your surface feel) and one that alternates directions, rather than stacking lines, so that the infill has more give. i tried gyroid at first, but 3D honeycomb was noticably softer because it alternates.

also, avoid sharp edges and corners in your design and slope the sides, don’t have them vertical. this will also increase the softness

I’ve been printing sculpted palm rest prototypes in ninjaflex, because i had some on hand, but if i were you I’d buy ninjatek’s Chinchilla. 75A and tested for skin compatibility.

i think its a reasonable idea, the TPU seals in air so its like a pool inflatable. TPU likes lower layer heights and you can get away with 5% infill but any less and the top surface will have holes in it and lose that pillowy feel. might need to go higher for a smoother surface. I recommend a non-crossing infill (otherwise you get blobs on the nozzle that will ruin your surface feel) and one that alternates directions, rather than stacking lines, so that the infill has more give. i tried gyroid at first, but 3D honeycomb was noticably softer because it alternates.