Update 10.02.2023:
I remixed the rotor with the toroidal design :) Feel free to test ist out!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5846249
Update 23.02.2023:
NEW PULLING RODS!
Some had proplems with a breaking pulling Rod. So I beefed up the old one (Classic+) and also designed 2 totaly new ones (Ergonomic & Hook). For the Ergonomic one you will need a M3 x 20+ Screw for assembling. I tested all with PLA in the local kindergarten and they withstand even rough abuse :P
If you have difficulties to find the function to separate the files into single objects go to printable. There I uploaded all parts individually and put them into folders. (This is not possible at thingiverse and I don´t want to have all parts flying around :P)
https://www.printables.com/model/227852-strong-flying-propeller-pull-copter-no-supports
Hi
Recently my son came home very sad because a friend had such a fancy flying propeller from the 1€ shop.
Of course I had to sit down directly at the computer and after the first prototype was already well working I designed an improved version.
This toy should be very stable and last a long time! Also, it's very easy to use and grab for the smaller ones among us!
I used the technique already tested in my designs like the math train or the finger skateboard.
You can print all parts without support and put the parts together very easy. I recommend to use a small drop of glue to secure the whole assembly in place. This drop should be located between the axis and the gear.
It is not necessary but I lubricated all mechanical pieces with some paraffin wax. A drop of Oil will do the job too but may be messy.
Put the pulling rod in the place marked by the arrows. Otherwise the propeller wants to fly downwards.
Have fun! :)
Note: The prop will fly long distances/ very high. So better use it in a place without trees and no obstacles. Hold the Toy away from the face! - otherwise the propeller will fly into it :D
Assembly Video:https://studio.youtube.com/video/0pYzTrsRqqw/edit
"Important" Print instructions/ tipps:
Axis: Print the axis with at least 4-5 perimeters!
Propeller: Print the propeller with not too brittle material! (I used tough PLA or even better: Nylon + Carbon Filament) - Low infill: The lighter the better ,-)
I also tried TPU. It works but if you pull too hard it may deform too much and cause a malfunction. The lower you choose the layer hight the less friction the prop will cause. (I printed in 0,15mm)
Gear & Bearings: Use filament that can withstand kinda low tolerances. PLA will do the job.
If you have a seam cut it off after printing. To avoid a bad surface dont "fill the gaps".
Pulling rod: I printed it with some tough PLA. But the less brittle the better I guess ,-)
It is possible to separate the file into parts with your slicer ,)
I also like to break the corners of all parts by scraping over these areas with a knife. That makes the action smooth and gives a good handfeel :)
Attention: Don't use damaged Propeller!! A disbalance in the Rotation might destroy the Propeller and parts could fly Off. Especially with brital Material Like PLA.
Small Update & Parts explanation:
Added a 200 mm Pulling Rod for smaller Printbeds. (Original is 240mm)
Added a 4 bladed Prop. Will be a little more robust but the 3 bladed one works better.
Update 06.07.2022
Added a new (hopefully) more aerodynamik prop. This one flies even higher!
(Added in standard download & single)
Small Update 08.07.2022
Changed the axis tolerances from 0,15 mm per side to 0,2 mm so you will have less problems to assemble the parts if your printer isnt calibrated propperly ;_)
If you like my work, I would be very happy about a small tip :)
https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/MeisterEdel
Hello all. I am very new to this but it is all very cool to me. I ran into a problem and I am not sure how to troubleshoot it. I downloaded a simple pull string helicopter off thingiverse. After running through the slicer software, the estimated build time is 131 hours. Relative to it’s size this seems insane. If I “run the simulated build”, there are long holds on one of the interior walls. I am hesitant to just “try it” and see if the pauses are a software thing that does not translate to the hardware. I am not sure how to break it down from here. Any advice?
I suspect what’s getting you is minimum layer time. In a nutshell, extruding very hot plastic onto a layer that was very recently extruded can result in a runny mess. Minimum layer time is intended to address this.
That said 131 hours seems a bit intense.
What’s your layer height? How good is your cooling? If you crank your fan, you might be able to decrease minimum layer time.
Just to add on to this, if OP is printing this standing then it really should be laid on iits side, so that the hole in the handle is facing up & down, not sideways. Looking at this print that’s definitely how it should be printed. Vertical not only runs into layer time issues, but it’s a tall, thin object with loads of layer seams in the middle. It will be extremely weak. Lying down the layers run along the length of it, making it stronger. If the hole is sideways, then one side of the handle makes a giant bridge, which could fail the print entirely or need lots of supports.
I imagine the designer very intentionally made it to print on its side.
Oh and put the embossed arrow facing up, assuming the other side is flat.
A good rule of thumb is to just always use 0.2mm layers unless you have a very good reason not to.
That being said, this doesn’t explain your truly nonsensical time prediction. It would just be double, since you have twice the layers to print. Like someone said, a few hours would be reasonable, certainly less than a day even with very fine detail.
I suspect what’s getting you is minimum layer time. In a nutshell, extruding very hot plastic onto a layer that was very recently extruded can result in a runny mess. Minimum layer time is intended to address this.
That said 131 hours seems a bit intense.
What’s your layer height? How good is your cooling? If you crank your fan, you might be able to decrease minimum layer time.
Just to add on to this, if OP is printing this standing then it really should be laid on iits side, so that the hole in the handle is facing up & down, not sideways. Looking at this print that’s definitely how it should be printed. Vertical not only runs into layer time issues, but it’s a tall, thin object with loads of layer seams in the middle. It will be extremely weak. Lying down the layers run along the length of it, making it stronger. If the hole is sideways, then one side of the handle makes a giant bridge, which could fail the print entirely or need lots of supports.
I imagine the designer very intentionally made it to print on its side.
Oh and put the embossed arrow facing up, assuming the other side is flat.
Layer height is 0.1mm. it’s odd, because it happens on specific curved areas. There are no pauses on other areas that were recently printed.
A good rule of thumb is to just always use 0.2mm layers unless you have a very good reason not to.
That being said, this doesn’t explain your truly nonsensical time prediction. It would just be double, since you have twice the layers to print. Like someone said, a few hours would be reasonable, certainly less than a day even with very fine detail.
You mean travel speed is slower in those curved areas? Perhaps it’s due to an overhang.
Are you slicing the parts flat or are they standing up?
They are flat